Today's Feature Friday surfer of the week is none other than Ms. Stoke City herself!
Meet Susie (@surfersusie66) who hails from Ventura, California. You may have seen her in a viral video spreading her fun vibes being absolutely stoked on surfing and life after catching some fun waves in Ventura!
How did you get started surfing?
S: I was born and raised in Ventura, CA, one of the best beach communities ever! I was watching the original movie "Gidget" in the late 1950's and told my parents "I'm going to be a surfer girl too." They said, "Of course." And from that day on, MY STOKE WAS BORN. The rest is history!
How has surfing affected your life?
S: Surfing is LIFE. Hard for non-surfers to understand. I like to describe it as my 10 degrees of stoke. Started at 1 and only gaining in degrees throughout my lifetime. It kept climbing when I discovered my local breaks and visited every break we could get to. I don't have to "prove" anything or care what other surfers think. That is FREEDOM!
What inspires you?
S: I'm inspired by the tides (oh give me mid-tide!), the surf report (love clean, small, fun waves), and sunshine, seriously!
Any fun surf or ocean related stories?
S: A crazy, funny ocean related story happened in the late 1960's. Surfing the Point in Ventura with my best friend, I spotted this blonde tan dude getting these great nose rides. I asked her, "Do you know him?" She says, "As a matter of fact, I do." Minutes later, we are in the water, when that same dude pops up on my wave, runs me right over, where I flip him off and cuss him out! Minutes later, I tell my best friend, "You know, I should marry that guy." And we've been married since 1970. He's still the best nose rider I know.
Biggest lesson learned?
S: NEVER underestimate the power of the Ocean. And know your limitations, but don't let that stop you!
Any advice/tips for younger surfers?
S: My advice for EVERY GROM is respect the locals and your elders!