In our Surf Stories Series, we explore the lives and origin stories of some of our favorite surfers, artists, musicians, and surf photographers!
Today's Feature Friday surfer of the week is none other than Ms. Stoke City herself!
Meet Susie (@surfersusie66) who hails from Ventura, California. You may have seen her in a viral video spreading her fun vibes being absolutely stoked on surfing and life after catching some fun waves in Ventura!
How did you get started surfing?
S: I was born and raised in Ventura, CA, one of the best beach communities ever! I was watching the original movie "Gidget" in the late 1950's and told my parents "I'm going to be a surfer girl too." They said, "Of course." And from that day on, MY STOKE WAS BORN. The rest is history!
How has surfing affected your life?
S: Surfing is LIFE. Hard for non-surfers to understand. I like to describe it as my 10 degrees of stoke. Started at 1 and only gaining in degrees throughout my lifetime. It kept climbing when I discovered my local breaks and visited every break we could get to. I don't have to "prove" anything or care what other surfers think. That is FREEDOM!
What inspires you?
S: I'm inspired by the tides (oh give me mid-tide!), the surf report (love clean, small, fun waves), and sunshine, seriously!
Any fun surf or ocean related stories?
S: A crazy, funny ocean related story happened in the late 1960's. Surfing the Point in Ventura with my best friend, I spotted this blonde tan dude getting these great nose rides. I asked her, "Do you know him?" She says, "As a matter of fact, I do." Minutes later, we are in the water, when that same dude pops up on my wave, runs me right over, where I flip him off and cuss him out! Minutes later, I tell my best friend, "You know, I should marry that guy." And we've been married since 1970. He's still the best nose rider I know.
Biggest lesson learned?
S: NEVER underestimate the power of the Ocean. And know your limitations, but don't let that stop you!
Any advice/tips for younger surfers?
S: My advice for EVERY GROM is respect the locals and your elders!