We recently had the opportunity to catch up with one of our fav surfers down in Sayulita, Risa Machuca! (@surfitoutmexico). Risa is a surfer, surf retreat and curvy bikini brand owner, and all around bad@ss!
Photo by: Ramiro Bruzzese @ramabruzzese
DG: Hi Risa! Tell us a little more about where you're from.
RM: My name is Risa Mara Machuca and I'm from San Blas, Nayarit Mexico and Liberty, New York. I've been living for 14 years in Sayulita, Nayarit Mexico.
DG: How long have you been surfing for and how did you get started surfing?
RM: I surfed for a summer in San Blas when I was 8 and started back up at 27. So 20 years of surfing with the first 6 being a couple of weeks a year. The surf scene was big in San Blas when I was a little kid so the surf vibe was super present.
DG: That is awesome! I'm sure a lot of our readers can relate to stopping and starting back up later. What does surfing mean to you? What are the benefits you have seen?
RM: Freedom of expression and self connection. The benefits are endless! From personal self care of mind and soul, to nature's bond and meeting like minded humans and making connections that continue outside of the water.
DG: Totally agree. Do you follow any specific workout plans or nutrition plans to maintain your fitness/ lifestyle as a surfer?
RM: I have a fresh coconut first thing every day. Eating good food and stretching! I have back and knee injuries that stem from childhood sports and activities so I also go to physio once a week.
DG: What barriers have you encountered as an older surfer? How do you deal with them?
RM: Folks are quick to judge someone like me and think I can't surf but I love to be underestimated. ;)
DG: Underestimated is an understatement. You rip! Any fun surf stories or major wipe outs you'd like to share?
RM: I adopted my fur baby, Chia, a month before the pandemic. She followed me everywhere, even into the ocean. One day I grabbed a Wavestorm to see if she'd get on. I put my board in the water and tapped my hand on the board. Chia literally hopped on the board and went right to the front of it and did a paw Hang 10! It was at this moment that I realized we had a natural surfer in the family! I immediately looked up and shouted "Thank you, Universe!" Check her out on Instagram if you want to see her in action for yourself: @chiasurf
DG: How cool is that! Like mama, like fur baby! Last question, if you could tell the new generation of surfers anything (surf or life advice or both!), what would it be?
RM: A few things: Time in the water is everything. And PATIENCE. You never catch the same wave. Be more cautious of land sharks than the ones in the ocean. We are always learning and are students of life and mother ocean. Stay humble.
DG: Thanks so much for a fun interview, Risa. We really loved chatting with you.
For more on Risa, check out her Instagram for some awesome surfing and future surf lessons/ retreats if you're in Sayulita!